Atacama Area, Chile

Wandering Why

Chilly Tatio Geysers, Chile

Wandering Why

Colca Canyon Area, Peru

Wandering Why

Quito, Ecuador

Wandering Why

Laguna De Apoyo, Nicaragua

Wandering Why

Valley de la Luna, Chile

Wandering Why

What's Happening

An All Important Thank You

May 8th, 2009 by WanderingSean | 1

With our journey now at an end, I think it’s extremely important to thank everyone that helped make this longtime dream become a lifelong memory.

First, I have to give the biggest thanks to my Mom.  Mom was kind enough to uproot her life in NY to move into our townhome in Florida, keep tabs on our finances, run down problems for us, and feed the cat (maybe a bit to much–he is FAT!) while we were away.  Thank you mom.  I love you.

I’d like to also thank:

My Dad for the gift of an Amazon Kindle which lightened my backpack tremendously.  Although the guidebook companies are still not on board with Kindle versions of their books, there was still plenty to load up and read away the downtime.  This is a great backpacker gadget (and yes, it’s more expensive crap to carry and worry about).  The only problem with it was fighting with WD over who got to read it next.  Thanks Dad.

My buddy Matt Shannon for hosting the now internet famous WanderingWhy.com website and his lightning fast response in troubleshooting the site while we were out there and barely connected at times (no comments from the peanut gallery about the photos being broken).  You are a true friend and a scary good IT guru.  See Matt’s website for all your computer security needs.

My doctor friend who will remain anonymous to avoid violating HIPPA <grin>.  Your prompt advice during some of the lowest times was a tremendous help and highly appreciated.  Thank you for the generosity of your expertise and your friendship.

My Jiu Jitsu friends Sonny and Chris for all their advice on Ecuador, and for introducing us to Sonny’s long lost brother, Juan, who showed us a great time in Buenos Aires.  Sonny, ever heard of Skype? Call your brother you bum.

My Jiu Jitsu instructor Eduardo not only for steering me to train at Gordo’s academy in Brazil for a new experience in my training, but for sharing and teaching me an art that opened up many new friendships in the different countries we visited.

And again, my Grandfather for all his travel stories and inspiration.

If I missed anyone, I apologize.  It’s tough to remember all the great friends who have helped us out over the course of this long journey.  Please don’t feel slighted as we do appreciate everything everyone has done no matter how small.

The Trip In Numbers

Apr 26th, 2009 by WanderingDawn | 6

Countries Visited :26

Continents:6

Preapproval visas needed: 3 (Brazil, Vietnam, India)

Pages added to passport: once in Australia

Months gone: 18

Number of days wandering: 548

Plane trips:39 WS, 45 WD

Bus: I seriously could not tell you

Overnight Bus: 10

Cars and Campers Rented: 3

Subway systems learned: 12  (most intricate was Tokyo)

Abbesses Metro Stop

Alternate forms of transport:
Horse:2
Elephant:1
Ox Cart:1
Speedboat: 5
Cable Car: 2
Trolley: 20
Ferry: 15
River boat: 2
Trains: 20
Motorbikes: 7 (one wreck)

Time (countries)spent driving on the other side of the road: 9 :
Australia
Japan
Thailand
Malaysia
Singapore
Hong Kong
Indonesia
India
England

Languages WD can say “thank you” in: 10

Languages WS can say “thank you” in: 1

Visits to the doctor: 1

Emails to the doctor : many many many

Number of Cipro taken: 45

Packages received: 3

Of those packages, one damaged, one lost.

Packages sent home : 9

Of those packages, one damaged, none lost.

SIM cards used: 7

WS phones a friend

Most website hits in one day: 5000

Least website hits in one day : 0

MIA items: 10:

water bottle filter

tank top

socks

4 pair underware (only WD’s!)

cable lock

WS’s stinky hiking sandals

WD’s Haviana sandals

Photos taken: 30,000+ (want to come for the slideshow?)

Number of Days over budget: 103

Number of Days under budget: 177

Most expensive room: Paris

Least expensive room: Cambodia

Cost of cheapest postcard stamp: .70

Cost of most expensive postcard stamp: $3

Cost of traveling around the world with your spouse without killing each other: PRICELESS

WS, WD, and History

HAPPY SIXTH ANNIVERSARY WS !!   Where to next?

My Travel Inspiration

Apr 22nd, 2009 by WanderingSean | 2

When I was little I thought a summer trip to Florida to visit my grandparents was an amazing adventure.  It was at the time, and I’m thankful for all those memories now that I am older.  Sitting here thinking a bit about the last 18 months of adventure, I was pondering when I caught the travel bug that started it all.

I think my love of travel was unknowingly planted and nurtured by my Grandfather.  A child of the Depression, I’m sure he never imagined he would get to see the world beyond the United States.  Applying for the U.S. Marines as a young man and the United States later joining in a little thing called WWII changed that.  Not the most ideal of conditions to travel, but my Grandfather is the eternal optimist.

IMG_2998 

A charismatic storyteller, he has shared countless hours of interesting tidbits and observations of his travels .  No, the stories are not always different but each time they were told they were somehow new and interesting. I cherished those tales then and still do now.

He spent years fighting against the Japanese in the jungles of the South Pacific Islands (should I tell him Japan was one of my favorite countries?)  And yes, he has seen and told of horrible suffering, starvation, death, and loss.  But his stories are more apt to be about the positive or funnier side of things: A pet wallaby in a sick bay camp in Australia, a bier-meister in Samoa who preferred their canned beer to his own local brew and loved to trade,  falling asleep on a beach in Guadalcanal only to wake up and learn he had slept through a shelling, or accidentally blowing up the outhouse in camp.

I’ve sat and listened to first hand accounts of tales of tribesman from the Pacific Islands, land and sea battles of Guadalcanal, and the sheer beauty and tranquility of the Samoan Islands.  For anyone that has traveled to Papua New Guinea and find it isolated and exotic, one can only imagine what it was like 65 years ago.

 Ponder

While these may have been the most difficult years of my Grandfather’s life, I’ve little doubt they were also the best.  Living simply out of a bag and seeing the world for a time can give you experiences and memories worth more than any amount of money.  Gramps is now 88 years old and still talks fondly of these years all the time.

Thankfully, I was able to travel with my Grandfather back to the locations of some of these stories a few years ago.   To finally see these places after a lifetime of stories about them was indescribable. I know how much fun it is to show someone a place you love and I think we both created some new memories traveling to these places together. Pictures from the trip can be found here and here if you are interested.

I now realize that like most people I’ve lived my life with the expectation that I will grow old.  The truth is, there is no guarantee of longevity for any of us.  If I’m as fortunate as my Grandfather, I’ll get to grow old and look back on a life that was well lived.  But if not, I still want to look back on a life well lived and I’m glad my time away has taught me this.

Now in his twilight years, I don’t know if my Grandfather truly understands what we have been up to the last 500 or so days–but I still want to thank him for sharing his adventures so that I could find the courage to go out and create my own.  It is a gift I will always cherish.

WWII Memorial, Guadalcanal

The Bends

Apr 17th, 2009 by WanderingDawn | 10

Without much pomp or circumstance, the eagle has landed.  That’s right, we are back in the United States.  We landed in New York on a cold spring night, complete with snow flakes, and headed to WS’s dad’s home on Long Island.

The return home has been very interesting thus far.  We are not truly home home yet, which makes a big difference.  We are still technically wandering, visiting relatives and traveling around the States a bit.  So I can’t completely say what it is like to be home.  I am sure things will be much different when I hit my own bed and enjoy my house for the first time in 18 months.  Until then, we are decompressing and readjusting to life in the States.

I have to say our re-entry has been a bit overwhelming.  The first day back we went to Wal-Mart and there was a point when WS and I were ready to run out the door.  It was loud–really loud.  In a foreign country, all the talking is mostly white noise because you do not understand.  At home, you understand that the lady on the cell phone is mad her car is not ready and the guy yelling at his kids is doing just that–yelling.  And, you understand all of it.  It was crowded, and all that coupled with the sensory overload of all the choices were enough to make us ready to hop on a plane back to anywhere. Do they make a cultural decompression chamber?

An American size coffee is at least 3 times that of anywhere else.  I had a cup of coffee and a NY bagel our first full day back with flavored creamer (my favorite) and promptly had a stomach revolt.  My body was crying for a teeny tiny cup and a little breakfast, and instead I overloaded on the caffeine and carbs…  Gotta get used to the Vente again.  Same goes for our first meal out in the States, most of it went home in a doggie bag because the portions are huge!

We now have access to a reliable and consistent internet connection, my cell phone is up and running, and the job search is about to commence after we return home.  While all of this is very exciting (well, maybe not the job part) there is still a sense of disappointment I feel with the return home.  There is the let down that what I have done the last 18 months, I no longer do.  I am no longer Wandering Dawn.

I feel it’s expected I summarize these last 18 months into a sound bite.  I don’t expect anyone to care how I had to wait 6 hours for a train in India and all the weird things I saw in that time, but I don’t have much else to talk about either.  I don’t know what movies are out, what songs are popular, or what the latest fashions are.  I don’t know what is going on in my neighborhood or at my old jobs.  All I know is the last 18 months were an experience of a lifetime that I do not know if I will ever be able to describe well.

So as I decompress, I have to say right now I feel like I have the bends.  Bear with us as we re-acclimate to the good ol’ US of A, and reintroduce ourselves to all those things that we love about this country.  We are lucky, truly lucky to live where we do and call ourselves American, we just need some time to get into the groove again.

Can someone please hand me my “People” magazine and a latte!?  I gotta wash down this bagel.

Photos are here, the photo page is still not playing nicely with our blog.

European Hospitality

Apr 11th, 2009 by WanderingSean | 2

Yup… we’ve been slacking on the posts lately–big time.  I think the last 18 months are starting to catch up with us.  We are constantly tired no matter how much sleep we get.  Still, it’s tough to face going home eventually.

We haven’t written much because we’ve been bouncing around Europe.  Travel is very easy here and more like vacation than travel.  Don”t get me wrong, we’ve been having a blast but I don’t think our readers enjoy hearing that as much as the funny, crazier, things that happen outside of the Western countries.

“WD ate lots of pain au chocolat in France.  WS stuffed his gut with bangers and mash in England and washed it down with several pints.  We both wandered the Louvre and saw the Mona Lisa.”  See what I mean? snooore…

So this post is more of a thank you to all our European friends (which may still be boring unless you are one of them).  If you look back at our FAQ you’ll see we had no intention of traveling Europe due to cost.  But, the many new friends we have made along the way made it a possiblity so we scratched the loose plans for an African safari for some much needed sweet European travel.

I’m amazed at the trust and hospitality we’ve encountered in our travels.  I’ve had people I’ve known for only minutes hand me their Ipod for a day or lend me local currency with complete trust.  In the case of these friendships, they later evolved into entrusting us alone in their homes and even lending us their car.

A big thanks to our friend Gerald in Spain.  Starting out I would have never thought we would make a new Austrian friend in Ecuador, travel to Peru together, meet up again in Japan, then visit him at his home in Barcelona.  Crazy huh?  Maybe the world really is shrinking.

Gerald, WD, and WS 

Thank you to our Costa Rica kiteboarding UK pals Alex and Catherine for a wonderful time and for educating us in traditional English food and pub culture.  We never thought we’d see Stonehenge, Bath, or the British Museum let alone with some great friends.

 Alex and Catherine

And last but of course not least, a big thank you to Pete and Anna.  You’ve helped slim down our horrible geography knowledge to include the beautiful city of Cambridge (maybe my favorite place in all of England) and the picturesque village of Stanford.  We never could have predicted a visit to Sweden too… just wonderful.  Seeing you again was like meeting old long-time friends.  We hope the jobs work out and you find a happy balance between the UK and Sweden.  Next time we see you we hope to be less “daft” and speak more “proper” English–you muppets!

Pete and Anna 

I realize as Americans how fearful we are of things that have never even happened to us.  How many readers out there have had their material things stolen or their homes robbed?  Sure it happens, but it’s the exception not the norm.  Constantly looking at life through lenses like this only robs us of potential kindness and new friendships.  I think somewhere along the line we’ve slipped from awareness to paranoia.

I hope one day we get to a chance to reciprocate some of the kindness and hospitality we have received these last 18 months–I’d be embarassed not to.  I don’t care if the chance happens this year or in 20 years our door is never closed and the weather is always nice.  Thanks again friends.

The Server Ate My Homework

Mar 23rd, 2009 by WanderingDawn | 6

You may have noticed our last two posts are now missing. Maybe not. We had the clue of where we were going, then the answer. But the server blew up, taking with it our next two posts as well. They recovered our clue and answer, but they no longer made sense, as people guessed where we were, I corrected our answer because it was off a bit, blah blah blah. Long story short, it did not make sense anymore, so we flushed them.

In the mean time, we will give you some links to check out, as we are too lazy to rewrite our entries right now. Maybe not lazy….we are in Paris for crying out loud! The city is calling.

Seine at Night
Check out this interview we did for our friend Nomadic Matt’s website. It explains how we have not killed each other yet on the road.

Click here for photos of London (not many).

Click here for photos of Barcelona.

Click here for photos of Paris.

Click here to get Sean to fix our photo page.

Chacho Revisited

Mar 15th, 2009 by WanderingSean | 0

While in Dubai I got to see my amigito Arturo.  I wrote a little post about my friend during our first visit back in Panama and I’ll give him some cyber-celebrity here again.

Only 2 years old the last time I saw him, his favorite word was the same as all two year olds: MIO! (mine).  Now nearly 4 years old his vocabulary has grown tremendously and was a great spanish quiz for WD and I.  What is the favorite word of children this age? Correct–it’s “Por Que?” (why?)  Only he says it with a strange spanish accent “Por Queee?”  Everything is questioned.  Out of curiosity or to drive his parents crazy I don’t know which but it’s wildly entertaining.

“Where is my bicycle?” he asks

“Outside” Jose tells him.

“Por Queeee?” he asks.

“Because that’s where you left it!”

Great fun to be nearly four. 

I see you! 

So, Arturo has graduated from everything belonging to him to questioning everything.  He also no longer calls me Chacho but I’m still not Sean, now I am “Hombre Muchacho”… not sure which I like better.

He seemed to be taken with WD and grilled her on her spanish.  One day he went into the bathroom with her and asked her to explain what each item in her bathroom kit was… and why of course.  WD was never more sorry for carrying 487 bottles of lotions and potions.

He then watched WD wrapping a gift for Ingrid and started his usual round of interrogation.  She explained it was for his mom and that this was a secret.  He understood and confirmed her “shuush” as they walked to the closet to hide the present.

Twenty seconds later he flew to the bedroom door, flug it open and howled down the stairs “MOM!!!! IT’S A PRESENT FOR YOU!!!”

WD and I could hardly breathe as we doubled over laughing.  I don’t forsee a future job in the secret service for Arturo.

Sadly for my roommate Jose, he is missing his son like crazy at the moment.  This time around in Dubai he has to go it alone and his family is back in Panama.  Tough? I’m sure.  Hang in there Jose, it will all be worth it in a year’s time.

Chacho and Papi

Dinero en Dubai

Mar 12th, 2009 by WanderingSean | 1

Today is day number 500 on the road for us and if you’ve been following along on this journey for that long you may recall our time in Panama.  We spent our first Christmas and New Year on the road with my old college roommate Jose.  Jose had just returned from 5 years overseas teaching English at a university in Dubai.  He enjoyed his time there but after 5 years of explosive growth and the congestion that comes with it, it was time to go back home.

It’s crazy how things work out though.

After a year back at home the job options for Jose yielded nothing but frustration and he decided to return to Dubai.  We just happened to be in the middle east already so… side trip!!

This time my friend’s game plan is to save some of that Dubai dinero to buy a house back in Panama.  Much like the majority of expats in this wealthy little kingdom, he is here to share in some of the riches.

Riches is what Dubai is all about.  Jose gave us the grand tour of the city throughout the week and pointed out entire sections of skyline that didn’t exist only a few years ago.  Mega communities all named something-village or other-city have appeared like a genie from the bottle.

I think of the city as a modern day fairy-tale kingdom.  What would you do with your kingdom if money were no object? keep it all for yourself (a-la Saudi Arabia) or build up your kingdom (Dubai) to make it the talk of the world?

Yes, build me the world’s only 7-star hotel:

Beautiful Burg Nice huh? only $1800 a night.

Yeah, and an island shaped like a palm tree.  Hell, build me two more.  Okay, now how about a series of islands set in a map of the world.  Although we are surrounded by desert and not strapped for real estate, we need the tallest building in the world.  Actually, let’s take advantage of that space and build the most expensive airport in the world–that should break the record for biggest building in the world and the largest  airport in the world.

I’d also like a ski slope in the middle of the desert because my giant airport is not completed yet.

As Mel Brooks would say “It’s good to be the king.”  Or in this case, the Emir.  Out of the 1.4 million people who live here, maybe it would be great to be one of the few nationals (less than 20% of the population) of the kingdom and get free utilities, free education and be able to own land.

I’m being my usual sarcastic self in these observations but the city’s wealth is truly impressive. The roads and surrounding landscaping are beautiful.  The endless mega-shopping malls are sights in themselves.  The public parks are the best I have seen anywhere.

At home the public parks close at dusk but here they stay open until midnight.  It was pretty sweet to hang out in a beautifully landscaped, well-lit park with a view of the skyline at night while families BBQ’d and sat around talking.  No drunk idiots, no seedy elements emerging from the shadows, no pack up your gear and get out now.  I don’t have kids but something like this at home would be nice.  Funny how back home some of us wonder if the middle east is safe… I don’t know anywhere at home where people are perfectly comfortable letting their kids run around after dark.

Grill To Go 

Dubai is quite an ambitious little place but even here they are feeling the effects of the global financial fallout.  Thankfully my friend’s employment is more secure than most and he should be fine.

I hadn’t seen Jose for eight years when I met him back in Panama and thought it was likely to be just as long before I did so again.  But fortune shines on us when we need it in our travels and by a good series of events a year later we found ourselves in Dubai visiting my friend from Panama.  Life is sometimes crazy in a good way.

Carrizo Family

Thieves in the Temple

Mar 6th, 2009 by WanderingDawn | 3

What can I truly say about Egypt?  The history speaks for itself.  Maybe what I can share with you instead are some interesting observations/opinions about visiting the great sites of Egypt.

1. The touts are gonna get you.  Every corner, every store.  You cannot avoid this.  However, if I can offer a bit of advice, try speaking another language.  It stops them in their tracks.  My rudimentary Spanish has been a lifesaver.

2. Do you know what baksheesh is?  You will learn in your first five minutes in Egypt.  It is a tip, and expected for most everything, from the temple guard who allows you to take your camera in, even if cameras are permitted, to the tout who tells you where the entrance is that you were walking in to anyway.

3. Climbing into a tomb is not as cool as it sounds.  We visited one that smelled like ammonia.  Another was amazing, but hot.  The guard will give you a piece of cardboard to fan yourself with-for baksheesh.

4. There is a Pizza Hut in front of the pyramids.  All photos are taken in the other direction, or far enough away that you cannot see it or the city, but its there, with all its gooey cheesy goodness.

5. There is a two tier price system in Egypt, not just for the sites, but for food.  Another piece of advice-learn the numbers in Arabic so you can point out what the price should be (you probably won’t get it, but have some fun trying).

6. Shwarmas…falafel…..kushary……eat eat eat!  WS is.

7. Sheesha is good.  Try it with some tea and good conversation.  The apple is really good.

8. Egyptians love Obama.

9. You will be offered a camel ride, a horse ride, or a donkey ride no less than 2000 times while visiting any site in Egypt.  And please, if you forgot to buy postcard, do not fear.  They will be offered to you 1000 times.

10. The carvings, paintings, and relics will AMAZE you.  There is no way to describe what I have seen here.  I could try to explain, but then you would owe me some baksheesh.

To see photos of Egypt (photo page still not working), click here.

Why I Blog

Feb 28th, 2009 by WanderingDawn | 5

I have realized after reading a few of my old entries that I sound a bit like a travel agent.  Come to Hong Kong, it’s a great city!  Come to Bali, the people here are amazing!  Come to Iguazzu Falls, and see this wonder for yourself!

In a way, this is how I feel… maybe not a travel agent, but more a connection that people can travel through.  I want readers to realize if we can do it, so can they.

I also want people not to be afraid to travel.  There are wonderful places with dark pasts.  Countless people have said, “are you sure you want to go to Bali/Thailand/Nicaragua/insert country here with a scarred reputation?  Isn’t it dangerous there?”

Think about it, Bali had bombings in 2002 and 2005, and their tourism is in the toilet right now because of the bombers’ execution and subsequent warning from the Aussie government (they lost 88 Aussies).  London and Spain have had bombings too, but no one asks if we are sure we want to go there.  Why is that?  There are no US government warnings for the UK, Spain, OR Indonesia.  I am hoping to dispel some of the fear the media can create when we see sound bites on the news.

Now obviously I am not advocating travel in areas that the US Government has warnings on so if you want to go to Somalia, go ahead, I will opt out.  But I hope our blog makes you want to travel someplace that makes you a bit uncomfortable. I am not talking safety uncomfortable, you should never do that.  I am talking about language, distance, food, places that are unlike anywhere you have been.  I hope through this blog places that were once unfamiliar to you now seem more familiar.

When I was a kid we did not travel.  We had no money to do much of anything, let alone take a vacation.  When my parents divorced, my father moved to Florida and we started visiting twice a year.  I remember asking a teacher if there was a time difference in Florida before we went for the first time, and being disappointed there was none.  I remember using the American Airlines automated flight schedule on the phone, putting together exotic destinations, like San Diego, with connections in places I thought I would never see, like Santa Fe, and writing them down in a notebook.  I remember taking my first spring break to Florida when I was in Grad School, thinking a road trip must be the greatest thing on earth.  I got in the car in Pennsylvania, and ended up somewhere totally different.

I still never really road tripped the US until my last year in Grad School, when I did an internship in Florida (safe) and California (exotic).  I was hooked.  I could be somewhere else, even if only temporary, and live life differently.  I loved it.  But I missed out on 6 weeks in Europe with Grad School friends because no one told me that overseas travel did not have to be expensive, that I could do it.  I thought it better to start working right away and although I put a dent in that student loan, I regret now that I did not go.  I did not know then overseas does not have to equal expensive.  Ah, and the dollar was so much stronger then, too.

My first real overseas trip was to Greece (not counting Mexico) with WS, my friend Caterina and her husband Michael.  I had the worst jet lag imaginable. I was so tired I was crying, but her grandfather taught me how to clean a fish.  Her family cooked us Greek food.  Her cousins walked with us all over town.  The only Greek I spoke was “thank you, yes, and no”.  Life was different, the people were kind even if we could not understand each other, and I loved it.

Travel is not always full of ups.  If you are a regular reader, you know there are downs, too.  You get sick, the unexpected happens, the toilets are unfamiliar, the language is different, and you can be uncomfortable.  But that is what it is all about.  The learning, the growing, the connection with someone from another country, realizing that we all want pretty much the same things out of life, even if we speak differently and eat differently (I apologize again for being left handed) and have different toilets.

I want you to travel.   I know the economy is in the toilet back home (I keep mentioning toilets in this post, why is that?), but I want you to realize that the same cost for a 7 day cruise for you and your family can equal a whole month in Thailand or Indonesia. A vacation is not the same as travel.

WS and I did not win the lottery or inherit a fortune to do this trip, we saved our money as travel was a priority for us.  If something is a priority to you, you make it happen, like a new TV you want or your child’s tuition that needs to be paid.  You find a way to make it happen.  Travel can happen, whether it is a 2 week vacation, or an around the world dream come true, it CAN happen if you want it.  Whether you are a family of four, a single person with a nomadic soul , or a thirty-something couple with a house, a car and a cat back home , it can be done.

And so I write.  Not so that I get more readers, or that someone buys something off of our Amazon links (I won’t mind if you do!), or that you stumble this article and I become internet famous.  I write because I love it out here, and I hope that I make you curious enough to want to see if you love it out here, too.