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What's Happening

Chacho Revisited

Mar 15th, 2009 by WanderingSean | 0

While in Dubai I got to see my amigito Arturo.  I wrote a little post about my friend during our first visit back in Panama and I’ll give him some cyber-celebrity here again.

Only 2 years old the last time I saw him, his favorite word was the same as all two year olds: MIO! (mine).  Now nearly 4 years old his vocabulary has grown tremendously and was a great spanish quiz for WD and I.  What is the favorite word of children this age? Correct–it’s “Por Que?” (why?)  Only he says it with a strange spanish accent “Por Queee?”  Everything is questioned.  Out of curiosity or to drive his parents crazy I don’t know which but it’s wildly entertaining.

“Where is my bicycle?” he asks

“Outside” Jose tells him.

“Por Queeee?” he asks.

“Because that’s where you left it!”

Great fun to be nearly four. 

I see you! 

So, Arturo has graduated from everything belonging to him to questioning everything.  He also no longer calls me Chacho but I’m still not Sean, now I am “Hombre Muchacho”… not sure which I like better.

He seemed to be taken with WD and grilled her on her spanish.  One day he went into the bathroom with her and asked her to explain what each item in her bathroom kit was… and why of course.  WD was never more sorry for carrying 487 bottles of lotions and potions.

He then watched WD wrapping a gift for Ingrid and started his usual round of interrogation.  She explained it was for his mom and that this was a secret.  He understood and confirmed her “shuush” as they walked to the closet to hide the present.

Twenty seconds later he flew to the bedroom door, flug it open and howled down the stairs “MOM!!!! IT’S A PRESENT FOR YOU!!!”

WD and I could hardly breathe as we doubled over laughing.  I don’t forsee a future job in the secret service for Arturo.

Sadly for my roommate Jose, he is missing his son like crazy at the moment.  This time around in Dubai he has to go it alone and his family is back in Panama.  Tough? I’m sure.  Hang in there Jose, it will all be worth it in a year’s time.

Chacho and Papi

Dinero en Dubai

Mar 12th, 2009 by WanderingSean | 1

Today is day number 500 on the road for us and if you’ve been following along on this journey for that long you may recall our time in Panama.  We spent our first Christmas and New Year on the road with my old college roommate Jose.  Jose had just returned from 5 years overseas teaching English at a university in Dubai.  He enjoyed his time there but after 5 years of explosive growth and the congestion that comes with it, it was time to go back home.

It’s crazy how things work out though.

After a year back at home the job options for Jose yielded nothing but frustration and he decided to return to Dubai.  We just happened to be in the middle east already so… side trip!!

This time my friend’s game plan is to save some of that Dubai dinero to buy a house back in Panama.  Much like the majority of expats in this wealthy little kingdom, he is here to share in some of the riches.

Riches is what Dubai is all about.  Jose gave us the grand tour of the city throughout the week and pointed out entire sections of skyline that didn’t exist only a few years ago.  Mega communities all named something-village or other-city have appeared like a genie from the bottle.

I think of the city as a modern day fairy-tale kingdom.  What would you do with your kingdom if money were no object? keep it all for yourself (a-la Saudi Arabia) or build up your kingdom (Dubai) to make it the talk of the world?

Yes, build me the world’s only 7-star hotel:

Beautiful Burg Nice huh? only $1800 a night.

Yeah, and an island shaped like a palm tree.  Hell, build me two more.  Okay, now how about a series of islands set in a map of the world.  Although we are surrounded by desert and not strapped for real estate, we need the tallest building in the world.  Actually, let’s take advantage of that space and build the most expensive airport in the world–that should break the record for biggest building in the world and the largest  airport in the world.

I’d also like a ski slope in the middle of the desert because my giant airport is not completed yet.

As Mel Brooks would say “It’s good to be the king.”  Or in this case, the Emir.  Out of the 1.4 million people who live here, maybe it would be great to be one of the few nationals (less than 20% of the population) of the kingdom and get free utilities, free education and be able to own land.

I’m being my usual sarcastic self in these observations but the city’s wealth is truly impressive. The roads and surrounding landscaping are beautiful.  The endless mega-shopping malls are sights in themselves.  The public parks are the best I have seen anywhere.

At home the public parks close at dusk but here they stay open until midnight.  It was pretty sweet to hang out in a beautifully landscaped, well-lit park with a view of the skyline at night while families BBQ’d and sat around talking.  No drunk idiots, no seedy elements emerging from the shadows, no pack up your gear and get out now.  I don’t have kids but something like this at home would be nice.  Funny how back home some of us wonder if the middle east is safe… I don’t know anywhere at home where people are perfectly comfortable letting their kids run around after dark.

Grill To Go 

Dubai is quite an ambitious little place but even here they are feeling the effects of the global financial fallout.  Thankfully my friend’s employment is more secure than most and he should be fine.

I hadn’t seen Jose for eight years when I met him back in Panama and thought it was likely to be just as long before I did so again.  But fortune shines on us when we need it in our travels and by a good series of events a year later we found ourselves in Dubai visiting my friend from Panama.  Life is sometimes crazy in a good way.

Carrizo Family

Thieves in the Temple

Mar 6th, 2009 by WanderingDawn | 3

What can I truly say about Egypt?  The history speaks for itself.  Maybe what I can share with you instead are some interesting observations/opinions about visiting the great sites of Egypt.

1. The touts are gonna get you.  Every corner, every store.  You cannot avoid this.  However, if I can offer a bit of advice, try speaking another language.  It stops them in their tracks.  My rudimentary Spanish has been a lifesaver.

2. Do you know what baksheesh is?  You will learn in your first five minutes in Egypt.  It is a tip, and expected for most everything, from the temple guard who allows you to take your camera in, even if cameras are permitted, to the tout who tells you where the entrance is that you were walking in to anyway.

3. Climbing into a tomb is not as cool as it sounds.  We visited one that smelled like ammonia.  Another was amazing, but hot.  The guard will give you a piece of cardboard to fan yourself with-for baksheesh.

4. There is a Pizza Hut in front of the pyramids.  All photos are taken in the other direction, or far enough away that you cannot see it or the city, but its there, with all its gooey cheesy goodness.

5. There is a two tier price system in Egypt, not just for the sites, but for food.  Another piece of advice-learn the numbers in Arabic so you can point out what the price should be (you probably won’t get it, but have some fun trying).

6. Shwarmas…falafel…..kushary……eat eat eat!  WS is.

7. Sheesha is good.  Try it with some tea and good conversation.  The apple is really good.

8. Egyptians love Obama.

9. You will be offered a camel ride, a horse ride, or a donkey ride no less than 2000 times while visiting any site in Egypt.  And please, if you forgot to buy postcard, do not fear.  They will be offered to you 1000 times.

10. The carvings, paintings, and relics will AMAZE you.  There is no way to describe what I have seen here.  I could try to explain, but then you would owe me some baksheesh.

To see photos of Egypt (photo page still not working), click here.

Why I Blog

Feb 28th, 2009 by WanderingDawn | 5

I have realized after reading a few of my old entries that I sound a bit like a travel agent.  Come to Hong Kong, it’s a great city!  Come to Bali, the people here are amazing!  Come to Iguazzu Falls, and see this wonder for yourself!

In a way, this is how I feel… maybe not a travel agent, but more a connection that people can travel through.  I want readers to realize if we can do it, so can they.

I also want people not to be afraid to travel.  There are wonderful places with dark pasts.  Countless people have said, “are you sure you want to go to Bali/Thailand/Nicaragua/insert country here with a scarred reputation?  Isn’t it dangerous there?”

Think about it, Bali had bombings in 2002 and 2005, and their tourism is in the toilet right now because of the bombers’ execution and subsequent warning from the Aussie government (they lost 88 Aussies).  London and Spain have had bombings too, but no one asks if we are sure we want to go there.  Why is that?  There are no US government warnings for the UK, Spain, OR Indonesia.  I am hoping to dispel some of the fear the media can create when we see sound bites on the news.

Now obviously I am not advocating travel in areas that the US Government has warnings on so if you want to go to Somalia, go ahead, I will opt out.  But I hope our blog makes you want to travel someplace that makes you a bit uncomfortable. I am not talking safety uncomfortable, you should never do that.  I am talking about language, distance, food, places that are unlike anywhere you have been.  I hope through this blog places that were once unfamiliar to you now seem more familiar.

When I was a kid we did not travel.  We had no money to do much of anything, let alone take a vacation.  When my parents divorced, my father moved to Florida and we started visiting twice a year.  I remember asking a teacher if there was a time difference in Florida before we went for the first time, and being disappointed there was none.  I remember using the American Airlines automated flight schedule on the phone, putting together exotic destinations, like San Diego, with connections in places I thought I would never see, like Santa Fe, and writing them down in a notebook.  I remember taking my first spring break to Florida when I was in Grad School, thinking a road trip must be the greatest thing on earth.  I got in the car in Pennsylvania, and ended up somewhere totally different.

I still never really road tripped the US until my last year in Grad School, when I did an internship in Florida (safe) and California (exotic).  I was hooked.  I could be somewhere else, even if only temporary, and live life differently.  I loved it.  But I missed out on 6 weeks in Europe with Grad School friends because no one told me that overseas travel did not have to be expensive, that I could do it.  I thought it better to start working right away and although I put a dent in that student loan, I regret now that I did not go.  I did not know then overseas does not have to equal expensive.  Ah, and the dollar was so much stronger then, too.

My first real overseas trip was to Greece (not counting Mexico) with WS, my friend Caterina and her husband Michael.  I had the worst jet lag imaginable. I was so tired I was crying, but her grandfather taught me how to clean a fish.  Her family cooked us Greek food.  Her cousins walked with us all over town.  The only Greek I spoke was “thank you, yes, and no”.  Life was different, the people were kind even if we could not understand each other, and I loved it.

Travel is not always full of ups.  If you are a regular reader, you know there are downs, too.  You get sick, the unexpected happens, the toilets are unfamiliar, the language is different, and you can be uncomfortable.  But that is what it is all about.  The learning, the growing, the connection with someone from another country, realizing that we all want pretty much the same things out of life, even if we speak differently and eat differently (I apologize again for being left handed) and have different toilets.

I want you to travel.   I know the economy is in the toilet back home (I keep mentioning toilets in this post, why is that?), but I want you to realize that the same cost for a 7 day cruise for you and your family can equal a whole month in Thailand or Indonesia. A vacation is not the same as travel.

WS and I did not win the lottery or inherit a fortune to do this trip, we saved our money as travel was a priority for us.  If something is a priority to you, you make it happen, like a new TV you want or your child’s tuition that needs to be paid.  You find a way to make it happen.  Travel can happen, whether it is a 2 week vacation, or an around the world dream come true, it CAN happen if you want it.  Whether you are a family of four, a single person with a nomadic soul , or a thirty-something couple with a house, a car and a cat back home , it can be done.

And so I write.  Not so that I get more readers, or that someone buys something off of our Amazon links (I won’t mind if you do!), or that you stumble this article and I become internet famous.  I write because I love it out here, and I hope that I make you curious enough to want to see if you love it out here, too.

Walk Like An Egyptian

Feb 25th, 2009 by WanderingDawn | 0

Welcome to Cairo!  I hope  The Bangles gave you the hint you needed.  That was much too easy.

We will also be taking a side trip to Dubai from Egypt.  Huh?  No girl bands for that one, so just had to tell ya.

As We Leave Jordan

Feb 22nd, 2009 by WanderingDawn | 7

Can this girl band from the 80s give you the crucial hint as to where we will go next?

Post your guesses under the “comments” section of this website. See you there!

Petra

Feb 20th, 2009 by WanderingDawn | 3

Before WS and I left on this trip, we made a list of our “must sees”.  On both of our lists was Petra.  Petra was our main reason for coming to Jordan.  Like most people, I first learned of Petra compliments of Indiana Jones.  I heard a bit more about it when it was named one of the Seven Wonders of the World.

We were lucky enough to continue our journey after the Dead Sea with Alisa and Matt, and met up with another really nice Canadian couple, Mike and Jordana, to explore Petra.

I honestly never thought of Petra beyond the Treasury, which is the building featured in the Indiana Jones film. But Petra is a huge complex, taking two days to really explore it.  It is a 30 minute walk just to get from the entrance to the Treasury.

Much to everyone’s dismay I had to sing the Indiana Jones theme song as we rounded the bend and finally got our first glimpse of the Treasury.  Do you know how hard it is to get that song out of your head?

Treasury

The party of six spent two full days and one night climbing, gazing, hiking, and being awestruck by this magnificent place.  And rather than bore you with commentary that cannot capture the beauty or size of Petra, let me just share some photos instead.  And know the photos do not do it justice either.  Enjoy!

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Monestery

Columns

The Lowest Point of our Trip

Feb 17th, 2009 by WanderingDawn | 4

 I admit to being geographically challenged.  When we started this trip, I was even worse.   When we arrived in Jordan, I had no idea we were so close to the Dead Sea.  I saw Dead Sea products in our hotel, but did not put two and two together until we spoke to some other travelers.  I am a little slow, but once I caught on, I was excited about the prospect of swimming in it.

We took a taxi with two fellow travelers, Alisa and Matt, and went to visit the Dead Sea.  On the way we stopped at Mt.Nebo, where Moses died and proclaimed to see the Promised Land (not on the same day).  I was astounded that we could see Israel from there.  I felt like Sarah Palin, getting my foreign policy experience (I can see Russia from my house!).

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 We continued our journey to 400 meters below sea level.  The Dead Sea was much larger than I had anticipated and very, very clear.  There was salt all around the edges of the water, and salt rocks on the shore.

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Sean got in first, and after some convincing that the water was not too cold, I got in, too.  Once in, we decided to test whether you float in the Dead Sea.  We are pleased to tell you that yes, you do float!  You bob, kind of like a cork.  Unless you were wearing concrete shoes compliments of the mob, it is not possible to drown here.  Not that you would want to put your head under anyway, with the high salt content.  Ouch! 

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 We followed our dip in the sea with a mud treatment, straight from the banks of the Dead Sea.  A local offered us a plastic supermarket bag for $5 Jordanian dollars to take some home.  Uh, no thanks, that’s almost $7USD, and unless you have Ben and Jerry’s in that bag too, I will pass.

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 Our taxi driver then took us to a hot spring to wash off the salt.  Alisa and I decided it was a great spa day, even if it was the lowest point of our trip.

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India–Done.

Feb 14th, 2009 by WanderingSean | 8

I love India.  This country is definitely not for everyone.  India will test your patience, perspective, and sometimes your sanity.  There is little middle ground here and most travelers seem to love or hate travel in this country.

India is dirty, noisy and chaotic, but friendly, hospitable and fascinating.  I read a book called “The Age of Kali” recommended to me by a local in Delhi while wandering the country.  It mentions how today you can still see some of the Hindu festivals that have been going on for the last 5,000 years in much the same way.

To think you can still see traditions as witnessed by the ancient Greeks whose culture of that time can now only be found in museums and history books…  I find this hard to get my head around.  As much as I love my own country we are just a blip on the time-line in comparison.

WD got sick and could not see past the filth.

“Look at ____ .” I would point out.

“This place is filthy” she would say.

There are layers and layers of history and culture.  Humanity organized and divided by region, language, caste, religion, income, race and on and on.  There are beautiful palaces and interesting alleys to wander down.

“Check out buildings down this street” I would offer.

“It’s dirty. ‘

“Try to keep your view above ankle level.” I suggested.

It wasn’t all bad for WD though and of course I’m teasing her here.  It would be difficult for anyone not to be blown away by the Taj Mahal,

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or to enjoy the beautiful skyline of Udaipur at night.

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Or be surprised at the beauty of the Ganges river in the mountains of Rishikesh (It’s not dirty!)

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People make a place.  Poverty seems to be something feared back home.  I’m not talking about becoming poor yourself but fearful of people who are.  I’ve learned while traveling the less people have the more they want to share.  I had endless offers of chai (tea) and conversation with no strings attached.  Sometimes people who spoke no English still wanted to drink chai with me.  People wanted to take photos with me no matter how much I tried to joke and explain I’m not famous.  The kindness and hospitality are really unlike anywhere else I have been.

The traffic and riding in it is better than any theme park ride you will ever try.  There are bicycles, cyclos, motorbikes, motorcycles, rickshaws, buses, cows, dogs, goats, water buffalo-about the only thing I did not see in the street was a zebra or a sane driver.  Here is a small sample of a short rickshaw ride to the train station near the Taj Mahal.  Ten points to you if you hear the crash:

India is kind, wonderful, fantastic, frustrating, endlessly curious, ancient, and yes-dirty.  But don’t take advice from someone who eats with her left hand, see it for yourself.

Jordan

Feb 13th, 2009 by WanderingDawn | 3

Welcome to Jordan!  Part of Indiana Jones and The Last Crusade was filmed here.

First View Treasury 

No one got the clue, so it was either a really good one or no one is reading our blog anymore.

Photos are still not working, so check out the link instead.  Maybe WS will fix it sometime this century.

Wandering in Indiana Jones' Footsteps